The tiny town of Lindos hugs the hill; mansions built by the Knights of St John bask beyond stone walls (catch a glimpse though open doors), while the bluest of seas shimmers down in the bay (St Paul came ashore 2,000 years ago). A magical place – timeless, untouched. No cars, just donkeys that ferry tourists up to the Acropolis. Follow them up to the mellow stone walls of Melenos, where they stop to drink from a water trough at the front door. The rooftop restaurant is one of the best on the island – locals come up for the view and to savour the creative cuisine, so book a table in advance.